Thursday, May 28, 2009

Surfing the Pacific Coast of Peru!!

Got here a little late yesterday and it took about 1 hour from the Lima airport to get to San Bartolo which lies on the Pacific Ocean, right in front of some really nice surf, called Penascal.

Didn't surf at all yesterday, as it was already 4:30 when we got there, and we still had to eat.
Decided to wake up early today and try to get a session after breakfast.

I was a little sick the whole trip, actually, got sick about the second day since we landed in Cusco. I had a cold, plus the combination of the altitude and lack of oxygen, and I having some difficulty in breathing. So this morning, I went out to give it a go, and lasted about 30 minutes before having to come back in. The water is a little cold, had to wear a full wetsuit with booties, and that combined with my past cold the difficulties of the altitude have caught up to me. Got an asthma attack, and before it got serious, I forced myself to come back into shore.

I am sooo fricking pissed, as the waves are really nice, good clean sets. Also, they are about 100 metres from place we are staying. Caught one wave only, stayed about 30 minutes, and had to come back in to get my puffer. Couldn't go back out for the rest of the day. Now just relaxing, writing this crap, since I can't frickin surf....

There are some other surfers here as well. A group from Brazil, a couple from Australia and a guy from Spain. They are all really good and were hitting the waves hard.

I will try again tomorrow, but as this keeps up, there is no way I can go out in the water again. Well, there goes my 3 days of surfing!!!!

Guess I have to go again in the fall somewhere to just surf, and this time, make sure I am not sick, so my asthma doesn't act up.


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